Tuesday, September 16, 2014

Day 9: The People's Palace

June 29, 2014

The next day was our last morning in Glasgow.  We set off for the People's Palace and Winter Garden.   It's a museum attached to a giant glass greenhouse, and I can only imagine how lovely it must be in winter to go into such a big warm open space and enjoy the green.

The museum was particularly interesting because it was focused on the social history of Glasgow, and the lives of the working people.  The vivid picture of poverty and hardship depicted gave me a new understanding of the appeal of socialism in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries there.

From the museum we made a brief stop at a yarn store, the delightful Queen of Purls- I'd finished the socks I was knitting and therefore was in need of more yarn.  I was seriously tempted by some beautiful Scottish yarn, but I'd have wanted enough to do a colorwork sweater (and I was carrying everything for the trip in my backpack), so I managed to talk myself out of it and just picked up a little more sock yarn.

Lacking a handy pattern, I cast on and made up something vaguely mountain-ish - I'm thinking of these as the Trossachs socks (the Trossachs being the hills adjacent to Loch Lomond).

Having obtained the security of enough additional fiber to last the rest of the trip, we went on to see some more Mackintosh architecture and decor at The Lighthouse, which not only included a much more in-depth history of Mackintosh, but also a fascinating exhibit on sustainable building, and how it was implemented in building housing and other public projects in preparation for the Commonwealth games in Glasgow.

we went on to the train station and took a train to Carlisle.
Carlisle Cathedral
What's in Carlisle, you ask?   Well- it was the western end of Hadrian's wall, has a lovely museum, and made a convenient base for exploration along the wall and into the Lakes Region.   For the evening, however, we just strolled around the town center, getting our bearings and scoping out dinner options.  We eventually had an absolutely delicious dinner at  Andalusia, a Spanish restaurant just down the street from our hotel.

Sunday, August 31, 2014

Day 8: Kelvingrove

June 28, 2014

The next day was our only full day in Glasgow.  We took the subway up to the river Kelvin and walked around. For the other geeks out there, yes, this is the river that gave its name to William Thompson, 1st Baron Kelvin, who defined the absolute temperature scale and also did valuable work on data transmission rates and engineering stresses in the transatlantic cable.

We walked until the Kelvingrove Museum opened. It's another beautiful building, and as we came in, we heard the end of a concert being played on their great pipe organ.

We walked around several wings, but were particularly interested in the exhibition on Charles Rennie Mackintosh.  They had a good deal of his furniture and interior designs, which were lovely and distinctive in an Art Deco-inspired way.  They also had a gallery of work by the Scottish Colorists.  We've developed a policy in some of these large, multi-subject museums of picking one or two areas, often of local relevance, to see, rather than trying to take in everything.

We also wandered through a fascinating exhibit of Fred Farrell's WWI art (which was rather more interesting to us than the colorists, truth be told).  Some of the pictures on display were ones he drew on his own, which would not have been published at the time, such as those showing wounded, or the hardships in the trenches. One stark drawing of no-man's land- a torn and devastated landscape barren of life- was particularly poignant.

After seeing these exhibits, we found our way down to the cafe.  As it was just opening up, we took a turn around an exhibit on the growth of Glasgow in the Georgian era.

In the cafe, I continued with locally-themed day and ordered a bowl of cullen skink, which is Scottish seafood chowder.  It was delicious!

After the museum we walked around some more- out through the botanical garden (filled with informative plaques)- and caught sight of amusing (at least to us) signage.  (The bottom item - the Kibble Palace. We pictured a large building filled with cat food.)

We strolled back to the Clyde and visited the Riverside Museum.  Definitely a must-see for aficionados of transportation technology- boats, trains, bicycles, buses and just about anything else you could imagine. Do check out the virtual tour

Glasgow did not have the reputation of a tourist destination twenty years ago, but it has cleaned up very nicely in its post-industrial phase.  We thought that in terms of look and feel, it had more in common with other cities that grew significantly at the same time, rather than necessarily other cities in the UK.  

After dinner, we strolled back up to the Kelvingrove area to find a pub with live music and shared a table with a couple visiting from Finland while enjoying the toe-tapping music.  They were folk-dancers, they told us, and Scottish music was similar in feel to Finnish folk music.  When we'd finished our cider and the noise had gotten to be a little too much, we said goodnight and walked back to our hotel.

Monday, August 25, 2014

Day 7: The Bonnie, Bonnie Banks

June 27, 2014

We set out early for Loch Lomond and found our schedule driven by our dedication to using public transportation.  We got off the train in Balloch, and after strolling around getting oriented, located the ferry landing just after the boat left, and the next one wasn't for an inconveniently long time.

So, we set out to look over the bus schedule and found that the next bus going in our direction wasn't leaving for an hour.  It's this kind of thing that leads us to see things we might otherwise have missed, in this case a leisurely walk about Balloch Castle Country Park, which was lovely and had nice views of the loch.

Our bus eventually took us up the east side of the loch to the national park center in Balmaha. The park center was small but had some interesting exhibits, and afterward we weighed our (two) options, and in view of the somewhat cool morning, chose the hot sit-down lunch at the Oak Tree Inn instead of a cold sandwich. To our delight, the food was excellent and we plotted our afternoon feeling much refreshed.  We walked up the West Highland Way, following the lake shore and enjoyed the scenery.
After a pleasant hour or so, we came upon a ranger station and had a nice chat with the park staff.  (They told us how fortunate we were to have such nice weather...and were astonished to find out that this was usual for us during our UK visits.  They invited us to stick around.)  We looked at the map and consulted our plethora of schedules, and decided that we had enough time to walk to Rowardennan and make the last ferry across the lock to Tarbet, which has a train station.   The park staff assured us that the trail followed the lake and was mostly flat.  "Only one real hill,"  they said blithely.

We set off at a fairly brisk place, and were not in the least sorry to see more of the area.

However we soon came to doubt the ranger's veracity.  We had at least half a dozen respectable candidates for 'just one hill'.

We balanced scenery appreciation with the need to keep moving.

In some cases, the scenery looked back.

I was just as happy I wasn't taking the photos, as time ran shorter and we continued to hustle.
Me, hustling.
We reached the ferry landing with only about fifteen minutes to spare.  I used the time to score us a couple of cold drinks at the youth hostel next to the landing.

And then we were off to Tarbet, at last getting to see the shores from out in the lake.

We landed in Tarbet, which was a slightly larger village and walked the couple of miles up to the train station. Consulting the schedule we found a train due shortly and started speculating on what we might have for dinner when we got back to Glasgow.   Only the train did not come.  A train going the other way stopped and picked up most of the passengers waiting on the platform, leaving half-a-dozen puzzled people still standing there.  It was then that Jonathan consulted the schedule again and noted a small unobtrusive 'S'- denoting Saturday service only- next to the train listing.  Today was Friday.  We mentioned this diffidently to the other passengers and they all exclaimed, reviewed the schedule and agreed that we were out of luck. There was another train, fortunately, but not for two hours.

Jonathan and I contemplated our empty stomachs for a moment.  "You know," I said.  "We passed a restaurant just at the bottom of the hill before we turned up the station road."  We decided to go check it out. It was called Slanj, and turned out to be quite new, but located in an attractive renovated church.  And the food was excellent.  

We had a terrific dinner, walked back up to the station, experienced the insect life of Scotland (the midges come out at dusk, quite annoying). And then we took the train back to Glasgow.